She Can Lead Climb…OUTSIDE?! wow.

So I may have skipped a couple steps in easing back into it…

let’s start with the differences between the climbing i’ve been doing and the new style I am going to share in this blog.

Top rope climbing:

The version of climbing that have been mainly practicing is top rope (TR). In this version of climbing the rope that you are attached to is above attached to anchor system the whole time. Usually if you’re climbing outside, you either have to hike to the top to set-up the anchor, or have someone lead climb up to set it up. This type of climbing feels super safe because you can visually see the tension in the rope and know it’s right there to catch you if you fall. Falling on top rope isn’t necessary a big deal if your belayer isn’t asleep at the wheel, the falls are usually quite small.

Lead/sport climbing:

Lead climbing is an advanced style of climbing that you learn after doing tope rope for a while. In some gyms and programs you have to be able to climb a minimum of 5.9 – 5.10a (if you have no idea what I am talking about, I explain it in my last blog post here) before you are allowed to learn how to lead climb. I am lucky enough that I was taught how to lead climb for free by my favorite teacher in high school! The way that this style of climbing works is, you start with all of the rope on the ground and as you climb up you place a special kind of carabiners called quick draws and clip your rope in to that. You continue to do so until you reach the top, this is where you either set up a anchor system or clip into the permanent anchor placed there. Now, you may be wondering, “Jayda what happens if you fall?” well that depends where the last quickdraw is in comparison to you. If you were to fall and the last place you clipped into is above your head, the fall will be much like a top rope fall. Now, if the last place you clipped into is 6 feet below you and you fall, you will fall all the way down to the next clip and then some (this is just because of the stretch and extra slack in the rope).

This is a really good example of what I am terrified of. So in the climber world a “whipper” refers to a really big fall on lead. The reason why this fall was so large is because of a few things. Firstly, they were well above the last clip which always means your fall is going to be bigger. Secondly, right before they fell, they pulled up a bunch of rope to clip into the draw they placed, but then he fell. Because of all of these factors, he whipped a fair distance.

Bringing this back to where it applies to me. This week for my inquiry blog I went outdoor climbing again (big shout out to the weather for being fantastic) on Mt. MacDonald which is directly across from where I climbed last week! Instead of top roping, I lead for the first time in four years. No big deal. Potentially my first outdoor lead too, I cannot remember if I sent (finished) one on my trip to vegas. Nonetheless, I did it. It happened, and although I am really proud of myself now, I was so scared on that rock.

Me lead climbing a 5.7 ft. my friend Lauren belying me.

It took a lot of trust in myself and my feet but got it done without falling. I’m excited to go into indoor season with this confidence so I can start strong.

One Response

  • Wow Jayda! Thats awesome! Congrats on the lead ascent at Mount Mac! That’s so amazing, and had to feel so great to accomplish. I can’t wait until I can join you one day! I really appreciate you supplying the video as an example of a whipper. This type seems quite common and definitely something I also am nervous about when beginning to lead climb.

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